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Author Topic: Clutch replacement  (Read 5817 times)
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tomb raider Topic starter
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« on: March 12, 2010, 07:14:02 PM »

So I need a clutch I think, snap the clutch to pop the front up and she slips baaaaaaaaad. Cable is adjusted to.  So I've bought the Honda Tool for the job and was wondering what kind of clutch to put in. They have kits and in the dirt we went with EBC I think.. I won't be doing this till next oil change. Any impute ??
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« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2010, 10:22:14 AM »

Soak the friction plates overnight in fresh oil before installation.

Use a torque wrench that is verified as accurate.

check for scoring marks on the surfaces around the clutch basket.

Drain the oil prior to removing the clutch cover!

Good luck!
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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2010, 01:46:26 PM »

jordanA I've done clutches, was asking what kind of clutch anyone has used
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Jimbo
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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2010, 01:54:08 PM »

I just installed a barnett clutch, and love it so far.
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« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2010, 03:29:06 PM »

snap the clutch to pop the front up and she slips baaaaaaaaad.

Hmmm, wonder why.

Ive used EBC in the past with good results.

Nothing is going to hold up for long under that type of treatment. You might as well go with what's cheapest, since you'll be replacing it often.
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« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2010, 08:37:09 PM »

OK I think I've got you all confused. I need a clutch as it seems to slip when I snap to pop the front up like a CBR.

I've done may replacement's in dirt machines and went with EBC. Any input on what you have used for NH replacement would be Good..  scratcher
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« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2010, 08:39:45 PM »

snap the clutch to pop the front up and she slips baaaaaaaaad.

Hmmm, wonder why.

Ive used EBC in the past with good results.

Nothing is going to hold up for long under that type of treatment. You might as well go with what's cheapest, since you'll be replacing it often.
ditto, my bud the Honda wrench said he replaces the wheelie guys clutches every year, some don't even last till the end of one season. Maybe there's a deal on bulk orders.
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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2010, 09:22:03 AM »

NO no, I don't abuse but did snap the clutch 1 wheel a bit through an intersection and it slipped bad ?? I don't ride that way, That is a good way to check a clutch in rig to. I guess I'll do the springs to for the Hey of it..
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« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2010, 10:18:21 AM »

I would use some stiffer springs and replace both the friction and steel plates.  EBC sells them, as does Barnett.  Either one should be fine, but the stiffer springs are a must.
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« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2010, 01:49:35 PM »

Good call, I'll fallow your input  beer
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« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2010, 02:19:52 PM »

Ok, so you're saying you don't do wheelies right? Because if you do, you might as well find a cheap clutch since you'll be replacing it again pretty soon anyway. If you ride like normal, then I would invest in either an EBC kit, or Barnett kit. I just put a Barnett clutch in my bike, and I really like it so far. It's a vast improvment from the 26 year old stock one. It came with new springs, and new steel plates. It was about $130 or so from a store on ebay.
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« Reply #11 on: March 16, 2010, 05:23:22 PM »

No 1 wheelers off the dirt for me, I just snapped it to see if she'd come up and went RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRing  yikes

EBay hmmmmm Stronger springs or what ever came in the kit ?? Did you have get that funny socket to ??
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« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2010, 05:58:20 PM »

Did you have get that funny socket to ??

I think you only need the special socket if you want to pull the basket. Shouldn't need to do that to replace the discs, plates and springs.
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« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2010, 06:08:57 PM »

Remember, there are three different types of friction disks in there. Make sure any aftermarkets match them.

 DISK, CL FRICTION
22201-KY2-000             001  
 
 DISK, CL FRICTION
22201-MA7-000            001
 
 
 DISK, CL FRICTION
22201-MT6-601             005  
 
 
 PLATE, CLUTCH
22321-MT3-000             005
 
 

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« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2010, 09:16:51 PM »

Remember, there are three different types of friction disks in there. Make sure any aftermarkets match them.

 DISK, CL FRICTION
22201-KY2-000             001 
 
 DISK, CL FRICTION
22201-MA7-000            001
 
 
 DISK, CL FRICTION
22201-MT6-601            005    
 
 
 PLATE, CLUTCH
22321-MT3-000             005
 
 



Wait a second, it depends on what bike we're talking about. For example, on my '83 650, all of the steel plates are the same, and all of the clutch discs are the same. Are these numbers for the 700S?

No 1 wheelers off the dirt for me, I just snapped it to see if she'd come up and went RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRing  yikes

EBay hmmmmm Stronger springs or what ever came in the kit ?? Did you have get that funny socket to ??
Yes. Brand new springs, brand new steel plates, and brand new kevlar clutch discs. No funny socket needed.
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« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2010, 09:47:39 PM »

So I need a clutch I think, snap the clutch to pop the front up and she slips baaaaaaaaad. Cable is adjusted to.  So I've bought the Honda Tool for the job and was wondering what kind of clutch to put in. They have kits and in the dirt we went with EBC I think.. I won't be doing this till next oil change. Any impute ??
for the guy's bike that asked the question. 92 750 Nighthawk
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« Reply #16 on: March 17, 2010, 06:17:49 AM »

Quote
Did you have get that funny socket to ??

I think Loki made a tool for this:

http://nighthawk-forums.com/index.php/topic,3033.0/highlight,clutch.html

Maybe you could make your own or PM him for tips.

The search tool for this site is really robust.
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« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2010, 06:18:13 AM »

Shoot, I better have a look in the book to see if I DO need a tool. The clutches I've done we did have to take the big center nut off to get the out side plate off to pull the guts..
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« Reply #18 on: March 17, 2010, 12:00:52 PM »

So I need a clutch I think, snap the clutch to pop the front up and she slips baaaaaaaaad. Cable is adjusted to.  So I've bought the Honda Tool for the job and was wondering what kind of clutch to put in. They have kits and in the dirt we went with EBC I think.. I won't be doing this till next oil change. Any impute ??
for the guy's bike that asked the question. 92 750 Nighthawk

Ah, I see it now. I didn't see the bike listed in the tagline before.  poke
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« Reply #19 on: March 17, 2010, 06:42:43 PM »

Seriously, the NH 750 was so NOT made for wheelies, that...if if DOESN'T slip under hard acceleration in first or second gear...does it need replacing at all?
The fact that the NH750 is so hard to wheelie makes me believe is may just be the undertuned gearing that is slipping? And your clutch really isn't bad after all?

I mean, I have a ZG1000 Concours and if I rag the living crap out of it, it will slip in first gear. It's a SHAFT DRIVE TOURING BIKE but it runs just fine even if I'm riding it hard. I have to be actually trying to abuse it to get it to slip in first. So I maintain that the clutch is in good shape (been about a year since that purposeful slip). I ride pretty hard overall.

You sure your clutch is actually bad, or is it just how the Nighthawk 750 clutch was made to operate?
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« Reply #20 on: March 17, 2010, 06:54:48 PM »

That is a good way to check a clutch

I test by putting the front wheel against a wall and slowly release the clutch with moderate throttle, going through all gears to check them at the same time.   Just my $0.02

BTW:  Your method may be more fun   rollinglaugh
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« Reply #21 on: March 17, 2010, 08:57:14 PM »

Coffee, that's what I've been thinking. If it don't slip any other time is it good ?? It has 15,000 miles on it, not knowing how the others road it and used the clutch I think it's time for  new one. Hell I've done every other thing to it so what the hey...

I still think it should jump to attention when the clutch is dumped. Clutches are made to engage solid not slip.

Adam your aviator freaks me out  yikes
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« Reply #22 on: March 17, 2010, 09:14:05 PM »

Well, to be honest...when I had 15K I replaced everything. Then I measured all the old parts. The only thing that was bad were the springs, very weak. The new 10% over EBC's stiffened the lever a bit but there is no slip. This was just my experience and does not relate to any bike with 15,000 miles. The springs are cheap, the disks are not, especially when not needed as in my case. Well I have an extra set now anyway.

The best policy is to take it apart, measure everything and inspect it according to specs and tolerances, then decide.
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« Reply #23 on: March 18, 2010, 04:21:53 AM »

Fish is spot on. Shouldn't be that big of a job to get in there and measure the springs and plates. THEN spend money if you have to.

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« Reply #24 on: March 18, 2010, 06:53:21 PM »

Quote
Clutches are made to engage solid not slip.

Clutches are little more than a glorified brake. They will engage up to a certain differential in torque between the transmission and and drive train. Exceed the torque limit and even the best designed clutch in the world will slip unless there is a physical locking pin involved that secures the the drive and driven parts together..and even then the pin can shear.

Fish is spot on. Shouldn't be that big of a job to get in there and measure the springs and plates. THEN spend money if you have to.

+1

Don't forget the disks. IME, the disks are often the high wear part in the clutch system.
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