rcNighthawkCB650SC 
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« on: August 15, 2011, 11:22:24 AM » |
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Well to anyone and everyone that has read from my book of a thread titled "new to the forum...." I have finally gotten a nighthawk!!! Its a 1984 650 with just under 20,000 miles on it. Its a salvage bike that was rebuilt and painted by a honda certified mechanic and I got it for $900. Its like sea green ish, hard to describe or take a good picture of. The flash makes it look baby blue and no flash makes it look dark green. It needs front and rear brakes, and a speedo cable. I am also replacing various parts as I see fit. Such as a bent peg and other odds and ends. It runs well and I will be posting pics as soon as I get the camera I was borrowing back which shouldnt take too long. In the meantime, I have a few more questions about replacing/checking things. I went to check the oil yesterday after riding it around my sub (not registered yet so no roads) and when I unscrewed the dipstick (with bike on centerstand) it seemed to read above full. I can see that the bottom 2 or 3 threads that the dipstick screws into are covered by the oil level. Is this overfilled?  Its also not the greatest looking even though in the ad the guy said he'd just done an oil change so I'm not really sure....... Are the oil filters the bike takes common enough for autozone to carry or are they special? The other thing thats kind of annoying but I can live with it if I must is the gear indicator. The numbers that the indicator indicates are kind of faded, like a battery alarm clock with dying batteries. The number isnt complete. The local honda mechanic I called said it runs off the battery, and if the battery is fine than the LED for the gear gauge is dying. He said that couldnt be replaced without replacing the whole gauge. Is that correct?  Thanks for answering my questions and yes there will definitely be pics coming. |
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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Laminar
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« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2011, 11:36:55 AM » |
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The proper way to check the oil is to run the bike for 30 seconds or so. Unscrew the dipstick and clean it off. Insert it into the engine case but don't screw it in at all. Then take your reading. Check around at Wal-Mart or auto parts stores for your oil filter: Honda: 15410-426-010
Fram: CH6009
WIX: 24940
Purolator: ML16809 from: http://nighthawk-forums.com/index.php/topic,9030.0.html |
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It's not what it is, it's what it does.
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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Bike: 1984 Honda CB 650SC
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« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2011, 12:08:43 PM » |
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The proper way to check the oil is to run the bike for 30 seconds or so. Unscrew the dipstick and clean it off. Insert it into the engine case but don't screw it in at all. Then take your reading.
ok well i did that last night but did it again just to be sure and i think its overfilled. i mean i guess i should be able to see the oil since the stick is so short...... but i mean its at the bottom of the threads the stick screws into. In fact im just remembering a few days ago I went to check it when the bike was straight up on the centerstand and some oil actually spilled out when I unscrewed the dipstick. so it was filled to the point where it was coming out of the fill hole when I took the dipstick out. i thought I'd done something wrong but I see that I havent. this can't be right can it? |
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2011, 12:09:18 PM » |
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ooops bottom part is not supposed to be quoted sorry
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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Laminar
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« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2011, 12:53:46 PM » |
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The oil is not "fill to spill," if some came out then it's overfilled. Either use a vacuum pump through the fill hole to remove some oil or drain some using the drain bolt.
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It's not what it is, it's what it does.
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2011, 01:11:54 PM » |
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The oil is not "fill to spill," if some came out then it's overfilled. Either use a vacuum pump through the fill hole to remove some oil or drain some using the drain bolt.
alright perfect, thats exactly what I wanted to be sure of before I drained it.  I figure I'll do a change anyhow cause its pretty dark lookin oil. also, do you have any idea whether or not the LED gear gauge can be changed out without swapping in a whole new gauge cluster? thanks  |
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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Laminar
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« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2011, 01:56:05 PM » |
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No idea. The 700s and '83-'85 650 were the only Nighthawks with a gear indicator, most people just live without them, so if it's a lot of trouble I wouldn't bother.
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ExTex
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« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2011, 03:09:36 PM » |
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I would drain the oil and use a new oil filter. I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 and buy it in the 1 gal. container at Wal mart.
You can usually buy a used complete "dashboard" from EBay (None today).
That is much easier than trying to replace some of the displays.
The 1982 speedometer/tachometer does not fit on the newer Nighthawk 650s.
Nor do the other model Nighthawk speedometer/tachometers.
As stated, you can use the tach to select the gear.... Keep the RPMs above 3000 and you will do ok.
Ride safely,
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1983 CB650sc
1989 VTR 250
1985 VF700s..Sold
1983 VT500c..Sold
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #8 on: August 18, 2011, 08:57:57 AM » |
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2011, 08:58:54 AM » |
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and the <a href link doesnt work the src one does
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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gammer
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"Hang on lady, we going for a ride" - Short Round
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« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2011, 08:59:18 AM » |
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When you hover your mouse over the picture in photobucket you want the code that looks like this: [img]http://s779.photobucket.com/albums/yy72/rpics93/Nighthawk%20650/?action=view&current=DSC08695.jpg[/img] The href code is for web pages. |
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Certifiably not certified.
Technical answers based on experience
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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Posts: 168
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« Reply #11 on: August 18, 2011, 09:03:10 AM » |
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When you hover your mouse over the picture in photobucket you want the code that looks like this: [img]http://s779.photobucket.com/albums/yy72/rpics93/Nighthawk%20650/?action=view&current=DSC08695.jpg[/img] The href code is for web pages. ok thanks. yea i used the html code that i always use for craiglist ads. my mistake. i'll try again. |
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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Bike: 1984 Honda CB 650SC
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« Reply #12 on: August 18, 2011, 09:03:40 AM » |
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #13 on: August 18, 2011, 09:07:41 AM » |
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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ariwhiteboy
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Carpe Navitas
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« Reply #14 on: August 18, 2011, 09:30:06 AM » |
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Congrats!  |
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What is good Phaedrus, what is not good? Need we ask anyone this?
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Option13
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« Reply #15 on: August 18, 2011, 10:14:26 AM » |
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That's a beautiful color!
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'84 650 - "Naia" | DDM HID | 700S Rotors | SS Brake Lines
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #16 on: August 19, 2011, 07:17:37 PM » |
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Congrats! thanks! That's a beautiful color!
yea its starting to grow on me.  when i first saw it in the ad I was a little hesitant because it looked baby blueish but it looks good now I think. not an aftermarket color I've seen many of on these bikes. |
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jerjohn
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« Reply #17 on: August 19, 2011, 07:42:26 PM » |
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I like that color.
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2000 Nighthawk 750
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #18 on: August 21, 2011, 11:54:57 AM » |
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hey guys got a question about my front brakes. I was working on my brakes yesterday.
Had the calipers off pads out new pads in everything's back together. Then I bled the brakes and had the 3/4 inch spacer between the lever and handlebars and all that.
They arent right though. The brakes lever has hardly any pressuyre on it when you squeeze it. Also, one of the two pads on each of the two discs are like really tight against the disc while the other one I can move back and forth with my fingers. I'm not sure what to do or what to assume this is. It was kind of hard to move the pistons back yesterday so the new pad could fit in too. Any ideas?
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Option13
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« Reply #19 on: August 21, 2011, 12:11:30 PM » |
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Bleed the brakes to start, then go from there.
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'84 650 - "Naia" | DDM HID | 700S Rotors | SS Brake Lines
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #20 on: August 21, 2011, 12:20:12 PM » |
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Bleed the brakes to start, then go from there.
I already bled the brakes once I put the new pads in. Do you mean bleed them again now? I thing I'm having a problem with one of the pistons but maybe it just needs to be bled again. Yesterday I could push one of the pistons in on each side and the other one required a c-clamp to go retract. I'm assuming that's the reason for one pad to be tight on the disc and the other not to be. But maybe bleeding it again will solve that issue. I'm about to have people over so I'll have to try and get to it later hopefully. Thanks |
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Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
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« Reply #21 on: August 21, 2011, 01:55:01 PM » |
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Bleed the brakes to start, then go from there.
I already bled the brakes once I put the new pads in. Do you mean bleed them again now? I thing I'm having a problem with one of the pistons but maybe it just needs to be bled again. Yesterday I could push one of the pistons in on each side and the other one required a c-clamp to go retract. I'm assuming that's the reason for one pad to be tight on the disc and the other not to be. But maybe bleeding it again will solve that issue. I'm about to have people over so I'll have to try and get to it later hopefully. Thanks Sounds like you need new caliper seals. http://nighthawk-forums.com/index.php/topic,7510.0 |
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ExTex
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« Reply #22 on: August 21, 2011, 02:48:08 PM » |
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If any piston is too hard to retract, then the pad will drag on the disc.
The piston needs to be cleaned up. Often, no new parts are needed.
Remove the caliper, remove the pads, push out both pistons (carefully, there will be a lot of brake fluid spilt).
Polish the pistons surfaces with a delicate pad (fingernails work fine). Don''t scratch the piston surfaces.
Clean out the cylinders.
Lubricate the piston with brake fluid or silicone brake grease and reinstall.
They should go in with light hand pressure.
Be careful to install without any binding due to uneven insertion.
You can bleed the brakes at this time if you install the pads and place a flat board (thicker than the disc) between them.
This will give you a chance to see how well the pads retract with hand pressure.
Otherwise, install the calipers & pads and bleed the brakes.
If the Master cylinder (MC) was without fluid, it usually is hard to "prime".
Fill the MC and slightly loosen the banjo bolt that holds the brake hose.
Apply pressure to the lever and re-tighten the banjo bolt when fluid drips out.
This may take a couple of pumps of the lever.
Then you should be able to move on to bleeding at the calipers, but you will want to tap on all of the banjo bolts to insure
removal of all of the air that may be trapped in them.
Do a forum search to read about bleeding brakes.
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1983 CB650sc
1989 VTR 250
1985 VF700s..Sold
1983 VT500c..Sold
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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« Reply #23 on: August 23, 2011, 07:17:13 AM » |
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alright well the brakes are working fine now. My dad helped me bleed them last night and they seemed to grab pretty well when I took it out for a spin afterwards. I think I am going to take apart the master cyinder this winter and clean it up. but I'm not really in a rush for winter at all. especially since school starts this week.  |
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rcNighthawkCB650SC
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Bike: 1984 Honda CB 650SC
Posts: 168
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« Reply #24 on: September 02, 2011, 07:19:06 PM » |
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Having a few issues with the bike that could lead to taking some stuff apart. First off, I just got another copy of my key made today because 1. I only had one copy, and 2. The ignition was being funny. The original key is slightly but noticeably bent/warped at the edge entering the ignition. Also a few weeks ago, I once realized that I could lock the forks by turning the key all the way to the left. I did that for two days in a row, and then didnt ride for a week. Tried to lock the forks sometime this week and the key wont turn left far enough to lock the forks. starts the bike fine. New key made to code today also will not turn switch far enough left to lock the forks. Does this mean the ignition needs to be taken apart and the tumbler inspected? |
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