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Author Topic: 1992 night hawk carb help  (Read 428 times)
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1234zach Topic starter
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Bike: 1992 nighthawk 750
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Join Date: Sep, 2011




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« on: September 05, 2011, 10:43:23 PM »

i just picked up a 1992 nighthawk 750. It stars up and runs but the carbs are way out of wack. the guy i got it from said he tryed to addjust them and did not know what he was doing. so he just stared turning things and could never get it to run right agen. I was trying to find out if any one know what the stock setings are for a 92 750 thanks for the help. I think im going to pick up a repair manual for it some time this week as long as i can get off work in time.
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NHPep
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Bike: 1992 Nighthawk 750
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« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2011, 04:02:53 AM »

Assuming you mean he messed with the pilot screws:

Stock setttings: Sync carbs to specs (#2 is base: all others 1.2 inHG +/-)

Until you get your manual:


* Pilot Screw procedure (92 750).jpg (148.59 KB, 710x982 - viewed 36 times.)
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coffee_brake
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« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2011, 04:33:36 AM »

If the EPA caps are still on the pilot screws, then the guy didn't mess them up. The caps are made of lead and are silver colored. If the caps have been removed, you will see tiny brass parts, not lead-colored ones.

If turning the big idle adjust knob doesn't get you results, I would bet a lot of money that they guy messed with the synch screws till he got them so far off it won't run right.
I once got a free Nighthawk 750 from a guy who did this. He couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run on all four cylinders, and after I got the bike, all I had to do was bench-synch the carbs.
While removing the carbs is time-consuming the first time, if you are patient it is not hard. No special tools except a ratchet strap. Just take your time and don't get frustrated, there are lots of helpful tips on how to do it, on this site.

Do a search here and on Google to find out how to bench-synch, it is very easy.
I wouldn't mess with the insides of the carbs at all unless the bike has been sitting unused.
So...start by seeing if the pilot screws have the EPA caps. If they do, then mess with the idle knob. It should be idling at 1100 RPMs after it's warmed up and off of choke. All four exhaust pipes should get hot as soon as you start the motor, all at the same time. If they don't, then one or more of them isn't firing right.
Then, if that doesn't work, you might have to pull the carbs and bench-synch them. A real carb-synch is done on the bike, but sometimes, like in my free bike case, the synch screws have been turned so far that the normal tools can't help and then a bench-synch is the best course.
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