coffee_brake
--- NHF---
Offline
Gender: 
Age: 37
Location: Augusta, GA
Bike: '92 CB750 (sold and missed), '05 Concours, '86 VFR700
Posts: 4464
Join Date: Mar, 2008
Jenn in "Jaw-Juh"
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2011, 04:33:36 AM » |
|
If the EPA caps are still on the pilot screws, then the guy didn't mess them up. The caps are made of lead and are silver colored. If the caps have been removed, you will see tiny brass parts, not lead-colored ones.
If turning the big idle adjust knob doesn't get you results, I would bet a lot of money that they guy messed with the synch screws till he got them so far off it won't run right. I once got a free Nighthawk 750 from a guy who did this. He couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run on all four cylinders, and after I got the bike, all I had to do was bench-synch the carbs. While removing the carbs is time-consuming the first time, if you are patient it is not hard. No special tools except a ratchet strap. Just take your time and don't get frustrated, there are lots of helpful tips on how to do it, on this site.
Do a search here and on Google to find out how to bench-synch, it is very easy. I wouldn't mess with the insides of the carbs at all unless the bike has been sitting unused. So...start by seeing if the pilot screws have the EPA caps. If they do, then mess with the idle knob. It should be idling at 1100 RPMs after it's warmed up and off of choke. All four exhaust pipes should get hot as soon as you start the motor, all at the same time. If they don't, then one or more of them isn't firing right. Then, if that doesn't work, you might have to pull the carbs and bench-synch them. A real carb-synch is done on the bike, but sometimes, like in my free bike case, the synch screws have been turned so far that the normal tools can't help and then a bench-synch is the best course.
|