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Author Topic: Locked up master cylinder?  (Read 450 times)
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blackandchrome Topic starter
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« on: January 05, 2012, 08:12:38 PM »

So I got my freshly rebuilt Nighthawk 700s registered this morning, maiden voyage around noon, ass on the pavement in the first 2 miles... It's a shame there is not an emoticon for part of you wanting to destroy everything with a baseball bat, while the other part of you just wants to break down in tears.

So anyway while I was riding I started to get a lot of resistance when I let off the clutch, I feel like more and more of an idiot when I realize how long it should have taken me to acknowledge sticking brakes. I thought it was the rear because I had just replaced the fluid in the front, and assumed I had screwed up the back when I adjusted it. I tapped on it without avail, made sure it had fully returned, and then the front wheel hopped with a nice steering jerk. By the time I could think, "time to get off the road" the wheel grabbed again and the steering jerked to full right. I had tank guards so the engine was saved, some more damage on the muffler, demolished front fairing and instrument cluster, some skin off the knees, destroyed my gloves and damaged my brand new riding jacket. Ego was heavily damaged by the 4 police cars and fire truck completely blocking traffic on a 30 MPH city street.  musicboohoo

The front brake was still locked up when I righted the bike and the lever was as hard as if it was at the bottom of the stroke indicating a lack of release in the master cylinder. After I bled the pressure at the calipers and resealed the bleed valve it worked fine. While starring at the bike back in my grandpas shop he told me his theory of why they locked up. That theory being that the lever was holding the piston closed just past the return hole, with slight braking the heat caused an increase in brake pressure, which would not return. I took the lever off and it was holding the piston down about 2-3mm, but if this was the case why would the brakes ever release? Is it more likely that there is a piece of debris in the line that was just pushed down toward the calipers when some of the fluid was bled out? But at that I flushed the brakes out about a week ago with probably 3x the amount of fluid it would have taken to fill the lines from empty, so I would have thought they would have been clean.

The bike will probably be fixed in a few days but my knees will take a week or 2, definitely looking into riding pants for next time, but Kansas only allots so many 60 degrees days in January so it could be awhile before I get out again.

Thoughts?

-Nick
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Brittles
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« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2012, 08:36:44 PM »

Sorry to hear about the accident. Thankfully it wasn't worse.

My feeling is that it's prudent to disassemble the master cylinder and caliper on these old bikes so they can be cleaned completely.
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John

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« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2012, 09:34:31 PM »

That sucks man.  musicboohoo I'm with brittles, disassemble and clean/rebuild. A good trick is to force the pistons out by hooking up a grease gun to the nipple and pumping slowly. The mess won't matter because you're going to clean them afterwards. Hope you heal quickly and get back on the road only slightly slower.  thumb
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« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2012, 08:14:32 AM »

I usually do a superficial cleaning of the brake caliper & piston, but the  last time the brake locked up again.
I found out that trash builds up in the groove of the seal and dustcover, so you need to remove them and clean those grooves.
Some times you can reuse the seals, but for $20 per brake, I decided to replace them.

Also, I haven't found a pair of riding pants with knee pads that I like, but I do wear leather pants in the winter (Leatherup.com)
and motorcycle jeans the rest of the year (Draggin Jeans and such).  I hope that they would reduce skin damage to the knee areas.

Glad you were hurt badly and also the bike.  By spring, both should be ready to ride.

Ride Safely,
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blackandchrome Topic starter
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« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2012, 09:22:16 AM »

Well I would be out in the shop working on the bike but my legs are froze up pretty good at the moment. What's the source on the seals/rebuild kit for the master cylinder? If there was a bad seal wouldn't that result in constant bleeding pressure?

-Nick
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Brittles
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« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2012, 10:06:06 AM »

You can get genuine Honda kits from your dealer or online from places like www.powersedge.com, www.hondapartsnation.com, and some others.

You can also get aftermarket kits made by K&L (I think that's the brand) off ebay or other online stores. George Fix is an ebay seller out of Florida that I've dealt with for those aftermarket kits.
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John

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« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2012, 07:29:32 AM »

also dont forget to do a good hone.
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KarlJay
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« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2012, 07:02:08 PM »

My front brakes locked up on me when I first started riding it years ago.

I found the problem was the plastic fluid viewer was falling aparts and leaving chunks of plastic stuff in the brake fluid.  I went to a local watch place and got the watch crystals that'll fit and installed those.

Did you do the MC watch crystal update?

It's really just a matter of time, the brake fluid / UV kills the viewers.

The second issue is the pants.  I got some red route jeans because it was the only pair I found that had full kevlar from knees up and had both knee and hip pads.  I had a head on accident and went low side to the left.  Exactly where the left hip pad is, I got a heavy bruise.  They did their job!

Two different concerns: Abraision and Impact.  Best to cover both.

Sorry to hear about the accident, glad to hear your basically ok.

Any Pics ? aparat
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« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2012, 08:15:23 PM »

Props to anyone who knows who this is.....

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Bostonshouse
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« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2012, 12:07:00 AM »

That must be that villan The Master Cylinder.
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Hondo
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« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2012, 06:57:43 AM »

That must be that villan The Master Cylinder.

 claps
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ariwhiteboy
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« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2012, 07:21:05 AM »

I cheated and looked at the photo name.  shog
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