Intermittent grinding at dead stop?

[hyouriittai]

I guess it's not really intermittent. But, when ever I start out on my rides, launching from a dead stop is very smooth and simple.

But it seems that the longer I ride, the more the bike doesn't want to get into gear and go. I thought maybe my clutch cable needed adjusting, because I put on a new set of bars, and the control positioning may have changed. I made a few adjustments at the lever and at the clutch housing, which seemed to help a bit, but it seems like the issue may still be there.

Any ideas? Not sure if I explained the situation well enough. Let me know!

[Bumblebee]

So....When cold, it starts in netural and you can put it in 1st then click up easily into netural again. When warm and you do the same thing, it's hard to click into netural without bumping into second or from second into netural. Also it's hard sometimes to go from netural into first or second when it's warm. Let it cool for several hours and it's back to shifting easily. Changing the adjustments help but it's still not enough or gets worse again over time. It might also feel a little rough when taking off from a stop once it's warmed up. Correct?

Do this: Stop on a level smooth surface when it's cold then again when it's hot with the engine running. It should shift in and out of netural from 1st and 2nd fairly easily. It shouldn't pop past netural when shifting. At no point should it be near impossible to shift while stopped with the clutch lever pulled in. It should also not try to creep forward on you beyond a very minor amount of force.

If it's creeping forward or hard to shift especially once it's warmed up:
Dig out your shop manual and follow the clutch adjustment procedure exactly. Don't adlib, don't make assumptions, just do what it says in the order it says to do it.
If it's still giving you grief, plan on a clutch overhaul. (It's really easy to do and only takes a couple hours the first time you do it)

One of the early symptoms of a clutch failure in progress is it riding ok when cold then starting to have shifting/creeping problems when it warms up within about 3-5 miles.

[hyouriittai]

Thanks Bumblebee, that pretty much describes my situation to a tee. I'll go through the shop manual step by step and see what happens.

How much would you estimate the parts being for a clutch overhaul, should it come down to that?

[niteman]

http://www.hondaparts-direct.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=122528&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1982&fveh=2930
Here is a diagram and prices for clutch parts. They sell all OEM parts (if they still have it in stock. Decent prices, not the best, but not too bad.

[Bumblebee]

I'll go through the shop manual step by step and see what happens.
How much would you estimate the parts being for a clutch overhaul, should it come down to that?

Do what the clutch adjustment and cable adjustment procedure says exactly in sequence. If it's out of adjustment, that'll fix it and eliminate excess clutch lever pressure.

If it's the clutch is actually failing, it's a few hour process the first time through if you clean things nicely as you go along. It took me about 4 hours however I fanatically clean and inspect EVERYTHING and photograph the entire process just because that's me. A generic clutch rebuild is just the friction disks and springs (since you're already in there) and that should be in the $70 range for OEM parts. If you replace the clutch plates also, it should be somewhere around $150. Your price can vary wildly depending on the specific motorcycle, where you buy the parts and which manufacturer. You can beat those prices easily if you avoid the local high priced dealers.