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Author Topic: My Honda...recently killed by a gremlin  (Read 2926 times)
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kevntt Topic starter
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« on: June 13, 2008, 10:33:54 PM »





It's got carb/electrical problems. If I can't get it running properly soon, I'll take a sledgehammer to it and sell the parts.
Grrrr.
More on this later
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« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2008, 12:31:29 PM »

 bugey eek7 dont destroy such a beauty! that is such a nice looking 700s, never mention sledge hammers
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Dustin LeBlanc

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« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2008, 12:45:26 PM »

 My 550 had charging issues when I first got it, after doing a lot of reading on the subject I was able to trouble shoot and fix the problem myself.
 The carbs were something I could easily handle, I cleaned the filters and carbs and let Sea-foam take care of the rest.

If I can do it just about anyone can. winker
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« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2008, 01:10:21 PM »

 welcome to the Forums kevntt!

Yow, LMK before you do that & I'll buy the bike from you!

We can sort out the issues with your bike & get it running well again.

First thing I would recommend- drain the fuel tank and then add 1/2 of a can of Seafoam to a full tank, and then run it.

The Seafoam will remove all varnish and other crud, usually solving most carb issues.

Now what's up with the electrical?
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« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2008, 01:16:47 PM »

you own the crowned jewel of nighthawks, dont dump it so fast
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Dustin LeBlanc

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« Reply #5 on: June 14, 2008, 01:25:44 PM »

That's a beautiful 'hawk. I hope you're joking about parting it out.

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« Reply #6 on: June 14, 2008, 01:40:10 PM »

Dude, what is exactly is it doing? not starting?
what makes you think it's the carbs?
Have you tried to push start it in second gear? and if so what happened?

don't give up on it.
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kevntt Topic starter
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« Reply #7 on: June 14, 2008, 02:16:01 PM »

In a nutshell - it sat too long and the gas went bad. When it started it up, dry dog food (from squirrels or mice) shot out of the exhaust! Had a mechanic do carb work on it, now the carbs are dripping some really nasty, dark gas. It had 40,000 trouble free miles. I got about 400 miles out of it, then put it up for the winter. Last time I rode it was Feb 2007. It started but the battery seemed weak, drove about 10 miles, stopped to get some gas....then nothing worked. I push-started it and discovered I had no lights at all (headlight, brakes, blinkers). It was running really rough too. It died while under full accelleration on an interstate on-ramp with a lot of cars right behind me! Bought a new battery and it's running at total loss. I think the alternator shaft chain broke... I think.
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« Reply #8 on: June 14, 2008, 02:25:51 PM »

I'd drain the tank ( really best to remove the tank and dump the gas out, then swirl some fresh fuel around inside & dump it) , carb fuel bowls and add the Seafoam with fresh gas.

Charge the battery, and change the oil & filter - I recommend Shell Rotella T 5W-40, $16 per gallon at Wal Mart or Autozone.

Then get it running and let it run for a while.

If it clears up, then ride it- gotta get the Seafoam through each carb/system to clear out the bad gas & crap.

I bet the charging system is ok, unless you checked it with a meter.

With the fully charged battery, check the battery voltage, bike off.

The start it and note the voltage again.

The check it with the engine at 3,000 rmp or so, see if it increases.

Also check that all of the wiring/connectors are ok- that bike's been sitting a while.
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« Reply #9 on: June 14, 2008, 06:12:34 PM »

yeah check as much wiring as you can get your hands on, a short somewhere could be causing your problems
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Dustin LeBlanc

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« Reply #10 on: June 14, 2008, 08:16:04 PM »

Carburetors leaking? Where from? It could be a stuck float valve or leaking seals. Nasty dark gas? Like it has liquified rubber in it or something? If they just dumped the carbs in carburetor cleaner without disassembling them near completely... banghead

What you're describing is a total electrical failure. If the alternator went, it should run off the battery. Dim lights if nothing else. Get the voltmeter out and start following the volts.

You're describing symptoms very similar to what I experienced a while back. Everything running then a minor hesitation like I had bumped the kill switch then all was ok. Weeks later it happened again then I stopped about 2 more miles down the road for a bit. When I tried to start again, it was kaput, NOTHING. No lights at all, engine wouldn't start, NO NOTHING AT ALL. It acted like I had taken the battery out. Zero observable volts past the battery. My CB650 has a main fuse near the battery. It's actually a little piece of fuseable metal, not a plastic or glass case around it. Just a strip of metal between two screws. After years of vibration, that little fuse finally had enough. It was a mechanical break in the fuse that was intermittent. An open connection at the main fuse and the lights go out as well as the ignition coils, thus the engine is gone too.
Just a thought to consider...
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« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2008, 10:00:41 PM »

its a honda not a harley, you only use sledge hammers on harleys Hap1
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kevntt Topic starter
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« Reply #12 on: June 15, 2008, 12:42:02 PM »

Bumblebee is wise
I bought a new aftermarket regulator and had the alternator tested and it's OK. The drip is coming from the little brass nipple-like things under each carb. I'm diving into it Monday.
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« Reply #13 on: June 15, 2008, 02:48:39 PM »

Anybody know anything about that backrest/luggage rack. I would love to have one on mine.Is it made especially for the hawk or are they just a generic setup.
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« Reply #14 on: June 15, 2008, 04:50:58 PM »

I'm out of my league here, I'll just pay attention and try to learn something, I'm sending your bike some positive chi though!   rickybanana ricky banana ricky banana biker_h4h1
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« Reply #15 on: June 15, 2008, 05:07:23 PM »

The drip is coming from the little brass nipple-like things under each carb. I'm diving into it Monday.

I've noticed one of my carbs does this.  Share what you find out with us.
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« Reply #16 on: June 16, 2008, 08:35:11 AM »

The little nipples under the carbs are the overflow ports. Basically you are getting too much gas into your carb float bowls, and it is coming out the overflow. I've had this issue happen on me to a number of different bikes. There is possibly an issue with your float needle (a little metal cylinder with a rubber cone on top). If the carbs are full of old gas and shellac/varnish, then this might not be closeing properly on its seal, and allowing gas to enter the carb when it shouldn't be. The Sea-Foam may help to reduce this.. but it sounds like a whole carb clean might be in order. If those needles don't seat properly, they will constantly aloow gas into the carb adn it will overflow because it can't use it as fast as it is coming into the bowl. 
  Hope this helps
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« Reply #17 on: June 17, 2008, 09:15:26 AM »

It's ALIVE !! I drained the tank and the carbs..they were full of dark amber gas. 4 gallons of medium grade gas and the better part of a can of SeaFoam - she fired up, warmed up, and idled smooth. I still don't trust it to take me around the block, but at least it's no longer a paperweight. More on this later
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« Reply #18 on: June 17, 2008, 10:58:05 AM »

ride it around the block or up and down the street so the engine doesn't over heat, i put seafoam in the 750f i got afew weeks ago and like you said it idles good but i ride up and down my street for about half an hour. i trust the bike but i don't have plates on it
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« Reply #19 on: June 17, 2008, 01:24:19 PM »

I'll put the rest of the SeaFoam in the oil, ride it around for about 30 miles, then change the oil.
I still have to replace the fork seals and the rock-hard rear tire, and have the mechanic check the electric system.
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« Reply #20 on: June 17, 2008, 07:19:13 PM »

The little nipples under the carbs are the overflow ports. Basically you are getting too much gas into your carb float bowls, and it is coming out the overflow. I've had this issue happen on me to a number of different bikes. There is possibly an issue with your float needle (a little metal cylinder with a rubber cone on top). If the carbs are full of old gas and shellac/varnish, then this might not be closeing properly on its seal, and allowing gas to enter the carb when it shouldn't be. The Sea-Foam may help to reduce this.. but it sounds like a whole carb clean might be in order. If those needles don't seat properly, they will constantly aloow gas into the carb adn it will overflow because it can't use it as fast as it is coming into the bowl. 
  Hope this helps

Agreed!
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« Reply #21 on: June 19, 2008, 01:55:21 PM »

Took her out for a short ride last night to work some of the treatment through the carbs. So far, so good.
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« Reply #22 on: June 21, 2008, 05:10:44 AM »

Awesome!
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kevntt Topic starter
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« Reply #23 on: June 24, 2008, 11:41:07 AM »

Took it out for a 30 mile ride yesterday. It runs strong - idles smooth. Pulled up to the house and shut it down. When I hit the starter button, the starter seems tired, but it'll fire up. Shut it down again and starter is too weak to fire it up. The tach or speedometer just jumps when the starter is pushed. Battery seems ok. Five minutes later it's as good as new. Is there some kind of safety switch that prevents the starter from being used too much? I still don't trust it to start again when I shut it off.
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« Reply #24 on: June 24, 2008, 11:53:18 AM »

Maybe a long-shot, but I had similar problems just before my starter went "kaput" on me.  Once I rebuilt the starter, all of the starting problems went away.

Well, I also picked up a Battery Tender, Jr, and I plug it in every time I get home, so that may have some effect too.  All I know is, I'm now not afraid to go anywhere and turn off the bike.
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