My 86 700S

[86cb700sc]

It's still missing the front and rear decals, and the seat started splitting (a new cover and the decals are on the way) but the thing is completely assembled in running condition. I thought I'd go ahead and post it.









The flash makes it look otherwise, but all the paint is perfectly matched.

[Hondo]

Awesome- new paint on the fairing & tail only?

[86cb700sc]

The rear fairing, front fairing and grab rail are all repainted and installed. I also have a repainted front fender to put on (the PO had the original repainted to match the idiot checkerboard scheme he'd had on it). I'm holding off on installing that until my braided stainless steel brake lines arrive.

[MrF]

Nice transformation!  Looks much better.

[happycommuter]

Ha, someone else had their left handlebar switchgear bleached by brake fluid!

Did you hook the mirror/blinkers up?  If so, did they get spliced to the original wiring?  I'm guessing the running light function got lost due to LEDs.

[gammer]

Looks good!

WD40, a toothbrush and a rag brought out the shine on my engine.
Took a little time and patience, but well worth it.

[detdrbuzzard]

WOW

[luckylindy]

Very nice.  Did you do the paint yourself?

[86cb700sc]

In reverse order:

No, I had the paint done by professionals at a body shop I've worked with as a customer (theirs) and as a client (mine). They're reasonable even though they specialize in high end and exotic cars. I can do okay on corrosion-control painting. Painting for cosmetic reasons is sadly beyond my skillset.

WD40 actually promotes corrosion on aluminum, so I won't be using it on my bike, thanks. :P

Yes, the mirrors/blinkers are hooked up but the relay needs to be replaced (superfast blinking not energizing lights long enough).

[86cb700sc]

Daylight pics:

Update: Daytime pics, no flash distortion of colors.

[Krtismo]

Nice, thats me favorite color scheme.

[gammer]

WD40 actually promotes corrosion on aluminum, so I won't be using it on my bike, thanks. :P

This absolutely not true. WD 40 is an oil...it prevents corrosion. In fact I've read that you are supposed to use it on any metal...including aluminum to prevent corrosion.

The only things that I know of that corrode aluminum is salt, some dish soaps, and oxygen (which it prevents naturally with aluminum oxide)

[86cb700sc]

No, long term, it promotes corrosion on aluminum. They discovered this when they were using it on Titan missiles. That's why it is banned from use on any aircraft or missiles in the US Air Force.

WD-40 is a water displacer. Not an oil, not a lube, not a penetrant.

[MrF]

http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf

Looks like it's mostly hydrocarbons. . .not sure what in there would corrode aluminum, unless it's part of the 10% non-hazardous ingredients.

I've heard arguments to both sides of this, but none have gone any deeper than "Well, I heard. . ." or "My buddy says. . ."  I'm curious as to whether it's true or not.

[gammer]

WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- somewhat similar to kerosene)
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-%: Inert ingredients

[Sideways]

Cool bike! I almost went with those same flush-mounts on my bike.

  I'm guessing the running light function got lost due to LEDs.

I hooked up my aftermarket signals to the original wiring and now have no running lights also, but I have resistors installed to slow the blink rate, I think it has to do with the fact that   LED's are diodes and only alow current to go one way, but I don't know for sure.

[86cb700sc]

It has to do with the LEDs not drawing enough current, which makes the flasher click off before it should. You can change out the Honda mechanical flasher for a Tridon electronic one that works, or you can spend a bit more and get a direct aftermarket replacement. I went with the automotive one just to get the job done and to ensure that I can get another one cheaply ($10) if it fails.

By the way, there's apparently a way to get the running light function back, and the LED mirrors have an internal switching logic for it too. I'm still looking into it.

[dbracing]

Care to share where you sourced the mirrors? I would like to buy a pair for mine.

[86cb700sc]

You know, you're the second person to ask me that today.

They were also from eBay, from the seller jagmotorcycle. Here's a link to their current auction. You should know that while their stuff is more or less as advertised, they have horrible communications and won't reply in a timely manner. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CB-250-599-919-Nighthawk-750-INTEGRATED-MIRRORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35587QQihZ012QQitemZ220256975777QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

A few notes:
1: I ordered the faux carbon fiber ones, but what I got was black, no CF. That's good because that's what I wanted in the first place and couldn't find.
2: The mirrors are close set to the handlebars - not close enough to cause any problems with operating the bike or putting your hands on the bars, but too close to easily do the V-for-victory greeting to other bikers off the left handgrip.
3: When properly installed, the mirrors stay in place even at speed, but they're "breakaway" in the sense that they will rotate back with a mild to moderate bump. Can be annoying.

[dbracing]

Thanks!  I am aware of them. I am ready to order a set of 4 billet aluminum signals for wifey's 650SC. So I could combine these and save a buck on shipping. I would prefer the black also. I did send them a question and got a response after a couple of days.

Nice job you have done getting your bike back to correct.

[86cb700sc]

Bumping this back. Turns out that the complex scheme involving relays to do running lights is *totally* unneeded on a 700S. It just needs two patch wires and some diodes spliced in.