Chain cleaner/lube?

[Beetlegeuce]

1982 650...just purchased recently and has the typical "been sitting around forever syndrome" so the chain needs attention badly. (most everything else has been attended to) 

Any favorite brands of chain cleaner and/or lube?

Thanks!

Bill

[ariwhiteboy]

I'm a big fan of chain wax, less flingy than lube.  I tend to clean and lube my chain about once every week or two.

[flynrider]

  It depends on the type of chain.  If it's an O-ring or X-ring sealed chain, you can use a light lube like chain wax or silicone.  If it's a standard non-sealed chain, you'll have to douse it with a heavy lube like 90 weight gear oil, or one of the gooey sticky lubes like PJ1 Black Label.

  For cleaning, kerosene or some other solvent like WD-40 and a brush will do the trick.

[Beetlegeuce]

The manual says o-ring chain.  How to I tell by looking at it?

Thanks,

Bill

[ariwhiteboy]

There will be little gaps between the plates and you should be able to see an o-ring when it's clean...how many miles on that bike?

[Soupskin]

I use kerosene and PJ1 Blue.

[tomb raider]

I just got some of that chain wax, sucks @$$. If you lived close I'd give to ya. I use
WD-40 every tank or so.. Works great with O-rings. Used it in the sand to and it work great there and in the sand you ask all you can from a chain..

[coffee_brake]

I'm cheap. We have three chain drive bikes in the stable, I clean with either kerosene or diesel fuel in an old coffee can (re-use several times) and a stiff brush and rag.
I lube with chainsaw bar oil, $5 for a gallon of the stuff. If you wipe off the excess carefully there is little fling.

The spray wax, at $8/can, was just too expensive and we only use it when on long-distance trips.

[luckylindy]

DuPont multi use lube is excellent.

[Beetlegeuce]

There will be little gaps between the plates and you should be able to see an o-ring when it's clean...how many miles on that bike?

About 3 miles shy of 12K

I was checking out the Dupont stuff online...teflon based if memory serves.  Seems like a good idea, just have to see how much it costs.

What about the spray-graphite stuff (from NAPA)?  I use that for a LOT of different things, wonder how it'd work on a bike chain,

[ariwhiteboy]

Not sure how the graphite would work, I imagine it would do in a pinch but I'm not sure how the graphite would affect the o-rings.

[luckylindy]

 The DuPont lube comes in an 11 oz can for about $5 at Lowes.  I lube every 500 miles and a can lasts about a year.
Like some others said, I clean with kerosene when needed and my chain usually lasts about 20,000 miles.   

[tomb raider]

I lube with chainsaw bar oil, $5 for a gallon of the stuff.

    I love it 

[Beetlegeuce]

Well the chainsaw bar oil is getting a lot of votes!  Just so happen to have a bottle of it out in the garage too!  (and of course several cans of WD40)

The graphite shouldn't effect the o-rings at all...I wouldn't think.  I smell an experiment! (just because)

[Beetlegeuce]

The DuPont lube comes in an 11 oz can for about $5 at Lowes.  I lube every 500 miles and a can lasts about a year.
Like some others said, I clean with kerosene when needed and my chain usually lasts about 20,000 miles.   

Oh cool, thanks.

Sounds like if this chain is original I better be planning on a new one quick (no idea if it is or not).  Are there any telltale signs? 

[ariwhiteboy]

IMO if the bike has sat a good bit, the chain looks old, and the odometer is a hair short of 12K I would be willing to bet the chain is original.  One good indicator would be where the adjustment is for the chain, if it's all the way up like a new chain and the tension is there I would say it's new (relatively), anything else and it's probably stock.

[Soupskin]

Oh cool, thanks.

Sounds like if this chain is original I better be planning on a new one quick (no idea if it is or not).  Are there any telltale signs? 

If there are any kinks or binds when rotating the rear wheel slowly then you will be due for a new one soon.  Also check the stretch tolerances.

[Beetlegeuce]

The adjustment is less than halfway back (on about the third indicator mark, out of 7). 

Haven't taken a ruler to it yet...but I'd guesstimate about an inch of vertical deflection...maybe slightly less.

Probably original.

[ariwhiteboy]

Yep, as the great magic 8 ball once said, "Signs point to Yes"

[Beetlegeuce]

Gotta love the magic 8-ball!  I think I'd rather have an Easy Button though. 

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

Bill

[LOKi]

aren't the original chain's endless? Meaning there is no master link. One continuous chain that was put on before swing arm. Unless your going to remove the swing arm to change the chain then you must have master link. Honda has the opportunity to put the endless chain on during manufacturing.

[luckylindy]

Loki's right.  If it is an endless chain, just cut it off rather than remove the swingarm.

[Soupskin]

I cut mine out with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel.  It was like buttah.

[coffee_brake]

My pop used to ride dirt bikes, he swears by a light solid grease mixed with graphite.

On dirt bikes, you need good chain lube (these were the days before o-ring chains) that won't have a bunch of sand sticking to it.
And, being very rural, fancy canned lube was hard to get. Pop and his buddies would mix the graphite with light grease and apply it by hand.

Still, for street bikes, I think a little cheapie oil can (or re-use a mustard or ketchup bottle) full of chain saw bar lube works great.
Remember, you can buy a half gallon of diesel fuel or kerosene at the pump and re-use it several times if you put the can under the chain to catch the run-off. The funk will go to the bottom, you keep dipping your brush from the top.

[Beetlegeuce]

I guess what I like about the idea of graphite is that it is a dry lubricant...meaning crud won't stick to the chain.  The spray can is rather convenient as well...spray it on and let it dry.  I do use it on bicycle chains, seems to work very well.

I suppose the spray on teflon based stuff would work about the same.