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Author Topic: Pants Has Questions About His CB750  (Read 3769 times)
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« on: August 22, 2010, 04:23:35 PM »

(Hope I picked the right place for this - mods, pls move if necessary)

Enjoying my new toy, but some questions have surfaced.  So, for my '91-03' cb750 friends (and anyone else for that matter):

1.  Chain slack is about 3/4" - on the tight end of the spec range.  Should I loosen it?  It makes very little noise when I ride it.

2.  How do you know when the chain and sprockets are worn?

3.  The green neutral light stays lit in 1st, neutral, and 2nd.  The manual says to check continuity on the switch, but doesn't tell me what makes it bad (is it a normally open or closed switch)?

4.  The PO used the Honda full synthetic oil.  Nice, but $12.00 per quart.   bugey  I always had a thing about changing make/brand of oil once a motor is broken in.  How do you feel about this?

5.  The bike came with a Slipstreamer Enterprise shield.  I think I might like that in the winter, but no air can get through in the summer.  knary  I'm looking for a smaller one - which one do you use, and where did you get it?  Any pictures you have of the windshield mounted would be great.  I'm looking for an adjustable one.  I'm 6'0".

6.  The cable operated clutch (as opposed to the hydro on the 700) grabs immediately.  No slipping, but it will start engaging when the handle is about 1/4" inch pulled.  Is that normal?

7.  I got 48.5 mpg this morning - very efficient conditions - 50-60 mph, not much stop/go.  In other words, that's about as good as it will get.  Is that in line with what you are getting?

8.  Has anyone purchase hard side luggage that will mount directly onto the Hondaline luggage rack?  If so, could I have some details please?

9.  I'm running 33 psi in both tires per the manual spec.  Bridgestone BT-45's.  Anybody differ and if so, how and why?

That's it for now, but I'm sure more questions will come up.
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« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2010, 05:32:13 PM »

1. I keep mine at about 1" laden(wife sitting on bike when checked).
2. Sprocket teeth get sharp, jagged and cause chain to bind.  Good sprockets and chain are quiet and smooth.
3. Don't know.
4. i don't think it will hurt to swith to dino or whatever oil you want.
5. You rode mine with the slipstreamer spitfire, good airflow for summer.
6. Sounds right.
7. When I ride that easy I usually get a bit better(51-2) but that's in the ballpark.
8. no 9. 33 for me   
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« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2010, 05:46:31 PM »

1. As long as it's within spec, I'd leave it.

2. Lindy's right on this one.  Keep it lubed and clean it every once and a while.  I use Chain Wax myself, it;s sort of self cleaning, but can leave a mess on the wheel.

3. Did you check the Clymer or Honda manual?  I have both, so I'll look and see what the other says.

4. Run what oil you want.  I've been using Rotell T.  No idea what the POs used.

5. This is a personal choice thing.  I have the Rifle SuperBike on mine with a 15" shield.  Looks good and a fair compromise for summer/winter.  In the winter I do wish for more hand protection, tho.  The national F-16 looks nice...

6. There should be about 1/8" play in the clutch handle.

7. I used to get around 48-50 on my '02 when I commuted.  Most of it was at 60 or so.  The '96 hasn't been that high, but my commute is more 65.  I haven't really done a good check since swapping for the 17-37 sprockets.

8. Never seen hard luggage for the Hondaline rack.  There's no soft luggage that I know of specifically for it, but it is a good place to secure some.

9. I'm running the same, but I gave Bridgestone 021 radials.  Bought those just before the rally.  Personal opinion: stay with bias and save the $.

Congrats on the new bike.  Hope it's not too fast for ya poke
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« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2010, 06:02:43 PM »

I prefer to run my chain at 3/4" to 1" any more than that at it can bounce and slap on the swingarm.

For the oil sheck your local auto parts store for Mobil1 4t full synth. I can usually find it on sale about every other month for around $8 or so. but in my opinion stick with the full synthetic it will hold up better in the air cooled engine. If you want more info just PM me and I will send you some links that explains why.

For the clutch question. Yes that is close to normal, you can adjust it

48.5 is a good number for those conditions, before I did the washer mod I would see those numbers under similar conditions. After the mod I range anywhere from 39 MPG to 47 MPG depending on riding habits.

and I run my BT-45's alittle higher pressure like 36 front 39 rear, but I do alot of interstate mileage and I am trying to limit flattening of the center.
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« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2010, 08:07:58 PM »

1.  I have mine set at 1".

2.  i use the chain wear indicator and observe the sprocket condition. Haven't ridden enough to wear out any chains yet.

3.  Not sure, but I am sure Jenn would know.

4.  Use whatever oil you want. I've tried different oils with the same results. The only exception is that the manual says to change every 4K, but I change every 2K.

5.  I think you are used to that little piece of plastic on your 700, and need to get used to a real shield. I would keep it for winter use and put a little one on during hot weather.

6.  Sounds like you need to re-train your muscle memory for the cable-operated clutch. 1/4" sounds about right.

7.  Yep, I always average 45-48 around town and 51-53 on the freeway.

8.  The only person I know that did it is Deadly, but, he made his own brackets. Good luck trying to get him to make some for you, did not even reply to any of my requests.

9.  Same here, about 33-35 on my Roadriders.

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« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2010, 08:43:57 PM »

I run semi synthetic like the book says.

Shield. I forget the name but there $99 @ out local bike shop..



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« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2010, 08:45:27 PM »

Thanks for all of the replies - please keep them coming.

Wahrsaul - my Honda Service Manual is not very clear on the neutral switch.  If you would check yours, I'd appreciate it.  Wonder if someone has a neutral switch lying around -- oh Ari my buddy my pal????
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« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2010, 06:39:52 AM »

According to Clymer:

Use an ohmmeter.  Disconnect the neutral switch.  Connect one lead to the neutral switch, and one to good engine ground.

The ohmmeter must read continuity with the transmission in neutral. 
The ohmmeter must read infinity with the transmission in gear.
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« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2010, 08:06:51 AM »

Sweet - the Honda manual left out the last 2 sentences.  A handy piece of information in my view.

Anyone - how about some pics of your 750's with a windscreen on it?


Also - new question.  What chain lube do you use?  Lubrication is my highest priority, and keeping the rim clean is after that.
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« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2010, 08:40:32 AM »

Nice looking bike Pants. Should have called you yesterday. I could have joined you for a ride to the point. Next time I'm around we can check how my hard bag will fit on that rack. Then we can make or modify an existing rack to attache to the Honda line rack. Your way ahead of the game just having something to hang the bags on.

I might loosen that chain a little. 3/4" is a little on the tight side. Remember with chains it's better to be a little loose than a little tight. A little loose it can smack the underside of the swing arm. No damage. To tight it stretches the chain and wears the sprockets when the suspension is compressed. Chains and sprockets are not cheep.

The clutch sounds about right. Mine starts to slip about 1/4" and starts to engage when letting out about the same distance.

I run a little higher psi in an effort to get more millage out of the tires. 38psi front and back. But I run different tires. If I was say running street tires in the hills of NC then I might run 33 or even 32psi. Tire pressure is a compromise between longevity and grip. The harder the tire the longer it will last but the less grip it will have. The softer the tire the more grip it will have but will not last nearly as long.  Knowing this, when your traveling 700 miles to the hills air them up to the high 30's when your flogging it in the hills air them down a little for better grip.

Check your local shop for a good no fling O-ring lubricant. I like the ones that are a little lighter. The PJ1 in the blue can works pretty well. There is a PJ1 that comes out like snot and that just seams like it would collect dirt and form a slurry that would accelerate the wear of a chain.


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« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2010, 11:44:51 AM »

Anyone - how about some pics of your 750's with a windscreen on it?

National Cycle Streetshield EX






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« Reply #11 on: August 23, 2010, 12:50:05 PM »

1.  I have about 3/4 inch in my chain also.  I figure as long as it is not riding on the chain guard I'm good.  It it is tighter, it can also speed up wear (too much tension on sprocket and chain).

2.  I would guess that when the chain had streched so the  tension makers on the bike were out of spec., it should be changed.  The sprockets will get really sharp and pointed.  Also the chain will have "slop" while wrapped around the sprocket.

3.  You many have to ask a dealer mechanic on that one.

4.  I also use the Rotell T in my cycle.  I know I always use the same oil in my cars even though I don't use Rotell T in them.

5.  I put a Memphis Shades "Big Shot" shield on my cycle.  I didn't like the sheild attaching to the handle bars and I thougth the extenders got in my way.  I had to modify the mounting bracket and basicly fabricate some extenders to make it fit correctly.  I dig it. I can also put a smaller shield on the same brackets ("Pop Top" which I have).  Mine is not very adjustable.  I have about an inch of travel is all.   I do change the shields based upon the day when I leave the house. 

6.  Just adjust the throttle tensioner screw on the right end of the clutch lever on the handle bars.  This will allow you to change the grab and release spot in the clutch travel.

7.  I float around the 50 mpg.

8.  I haven't purchased any hard bags yet.  I did purchase a nylon bag that sits on the passenger seat and hangs down over the sides to hold the seat while I was at Sturgis.  I'm currently building a small frame for inside the bag.  I'm looking forward to seeing what people suggest.  I still want saddle bags.  I don't know if I want hard or soft.

9.  I also run bridgestone BT45's.  I have just over 1500 miles on them now.  My tires are at 34 psi.  That's where the cycle guys set them when I had them mounted.

I hope I helped.
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« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2010, 01:16:36 PM »

Worn sprockets will start to look like the teeth are bending forward and/or, they start to get sharp.



An inch of free play in the middle of the chain (when sitting on the bike) is about right.

Note: when adjusting the chain, make sure the rear axle is strait. I've never trusted the markers on the side of the swing arm. I use a vernier caliper to measure, and I give the back tire a good spin and check to see that the rear sprocket teeth line up in the middle of the chain.
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« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2010, 01:32:38 PM »

I run my chain on the loose side of 1 inch when on the centerstand,I use John Deere chain lube after a ride,the excess drips off and no mess on the rim,BTW,I checked my records and I have not needed to adjust my chain in over 18000 miles,so I'm doing something right!
Your clutch seems about right.
I run 42 psi in the rear Michelin Active and got 15000 miles out of one,33 in the front.
I wouldn't worry about switching back to dino oil.
I like my Hondaline shield because it mounts only to the forks,good wind in summer,a little cold in winter tho.
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« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2010, 01:40:57 PM »

BTW,I made my mounts for my Givi side bags while the hondaline rack was on,so if you need some measurements of what I did let me know
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« Reply #15 on: August 23, 2010, 04:13:10 PM »

N5TBU - that would be helpful.  Loki and I area going to try to fabricate something.  I'd like to get hard side bags.  Givi makes a plate that should fit on the hondaline luggage rack, but even if not, I can use the sissy bar luggage, my barrel tail bag, etc.

Looking forward to making it my very own.
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« Reply #16 on: August 23, 2010, 05:29:14 PM »

If you decide to cut the sissy bar in order to mount a trunk box, there are back pads available for trunks so it will work as a passenger backrest.
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« Reply #17 on: August 23, 2010, 07:49:45 PM »

 Here's my Slipstreamer Spitfire shield.  Recognize the background?
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« Reply #18 on: August 23, 2010, 09:06:39 PM »

8.  Has anyone purchase hard side luggage that will mount directly onto the Hondaline luggage rack?  If so, could I have some details please?

I was just looking at Twisted Throttle and they still have the SWMotech  http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2537/157/ side back rack for 750 nighthawks, however it is for the European version. I think there is a thread somewhere on how to modify for US models.

I also saw some interesting ideas that might be fairly easy to fab. Uses a rectangular loop with tabs coming off to mount points. http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/1908/494/ You can purchase that loop and it is made for Givi and several other types.
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« Reply #19 on: August 24, 2010, 06:36:21 AM »

Again, many thanks for the replies.

Yesterday, I pulled out the Vergas (sp?) soft bag made for the sissy bar.  It's a very large bag.  Also, my Tourmaster barrel tail bag is big to.  I really think that between these and my tank bag, I've got enough luggage to go at least 3 days - maybe 4.  Remember - I don't plan on tenting.  I could just buy a styro ice chest at my destination - no need to tote food/drink on the road.

Each piece comes with a rain bag cover.  Will my stuff still get wet?

I'm not too crazy about cutting the sissy bar.
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« Reply #20 on: August 24, 2010, 06:52:22 AM »

Not sure about the bags you have...I had a set of throw over soft bags on my '02.  The rain covers were built in - meaning they were attached and stored in a zippered side pouch.  The one time I had to use them, they kept the water out - mostly.  Since they didn't cover all of the side next to the bike, some water got in between the cover and the bag.  I didn't have anything in them at the time, but the bottoms of the bags felt damp, and it took days before the liners dried out.  Since then, I've been kind of down on soft luggage.  I still have those bags in the garage.  They didn't hold their shape well when empty either, so maybe I just got a bad set?  I have a set of Nelson Riggs on the '96 at the moment, but I doubt they'll see rain to test.

With the kind of bags your using, I'd think the rain covers should work well.  I'm thinking it was the water coming off the wheel that cause my problem.
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« Reply #21 on: August 24, 2010, 07:01:54 AM »

Are you going to be around this weekend pants? I'm going to be in town again if you want to meet for a ride. We can have a look at how hard bags might fit on your rack.

If you can pack for 3 or 4 days then you have just about any distance covered. What do you need on day 5 that you wouldn't need on day 3 and 4? Or day 25 for that matter?

Soft bags with rain covers on them probably work pretty well. But not as well as a hard case. Plus you must stop and deploy the rain cover. With hard cases you can just ride through. Nothing's getting wet in hard cases unless you submerge them. Problem with a hard top case is it flips open. The back rest would get in the way. While cutting it isn't the best option there might be a way to make it removable. Yes that would require cutting it too. But you could put a fitting on the backrest that mates up with the base with a pin to hold it in place. Caps to keep water from going into the tubes could fit the same way.

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« Reply #22 on: August 24, 2010, 07:45:13 AM »

On the way to Deal's gap Chromy and I rode through a few hours of rain. My Nelson-Rigg bags stayed dry with the covers.

I also have a dry bag from REI that is great. Designed for canoes etc. I think you can get one in yellow. I have a red one that I strap to the back of the luggage rack.


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« Reply #23 on: August 24, 2010, 08:30:16 AM »

I have very similiar Nelson Rigg bags as DrDubb and I will second that they stay dry with the covers on. The bags themselves are waterproof, the only place for water to get in is at the zippers. If you are passing through light rain then very little moisture will get in, heavy/torrentual downpours will require you to put the rain covers on. Nelson Rigg also offers a lifetime warranty with their bags.

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« Reply #24 on: August 24, 2010, 08:35:13 AM »

Loki - I'm planning to ride on Saturday.  Looking forward to seeing you and hearing your thoughts about luggage.  I'll PM Nate and N5TBU - maybe we can make it a 4-some  bugey  You know I'm not going to be in favor of cutting OY.

Dr and Cymers - I'm assuming those saddle bags are soft - the picture is not real clear.

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