Air/fuel screws not changing rpm's

[mpllis]

Ok, my understanding of adjusting the air/fuels screws is to turn them out till you rpm's drop then back them in a little.  However turning the screws has no effect on rpm's.  What  is this telling me?  We pulled the carbs and cleaned the jets.  Bike runs great at rpm however it still has a hesiotation off idle and will sometimes stall if you give it a quick handful of throttle off idle.
Thanks all

[drdubb]

Mine did that, but I added larger slow jets.

The idle screws should start at stock, 2.5 out for a 750, 2 5/8 for a 650. Set idle to 1100. Turn them out 1/2 turn at a time till idle drops 50 rpm. Then you work them one at a time.

Do you have a shop manual?


Sounds to me like you're too rich off idle.

[mpllis]

Yes I have a Clymers but most of the stuff seems to pertain to a different bike mostly a 550.  But it is helpful.  I started them at 2 5/8.  I get this backwards sometimes, when I turn the air fuel screws out (counterclockwise)  is that leaning or richening the mixture?  Is it ok for the screws to be turned in less than 2 5/8ths or is that the minimum they can be in?
I also have a fuel leak between #2 and #3 carb not sure if it is the joint set O ring yet or not.  I read somewhere on this forum about if the float is sticking then gas may come out the float bowl overflow????  Never heard of a open vent on a float bowl.  Is there such a thing?
Thanks for the help.

[drdubb]

Do you have a 650? If so, the 550 and 650 are basically the same.

I thought I had sticky floats, but it was the chokes. I couldn't get cylinders 1 & 2 to fire.

Fix the leak.