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Author Topic: 1991 250 sudden no spark  (Read 1211 times)
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cfranco Topic starter
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Bike: 1991 Honda CB250 Nighthawk
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« on: December 20, 2010, 02:49:36 PM »

Hi, I'm having some issues with a 1991 250 nighthawk. I'm very unfamiliar with cdi but not the Hondas themselves (rebuilt a '79 cb125 cafe style.) But whats going on is when I first bought it, it was not running, as per the previous owner, wouldn't crank. I was able to make it run by bypassing the magnetic starter switch that was bad. after putting around a bit, I pulled the carb for a quick clean, and put it back together, after that, I have not been able to get a spark at all. I replaced the magnetic starter switch and it cranks easily with the push button but still no spark.

I'm pretty familiar with electrical and checked the switches.
No power to both of the coils when I crank it.
regulator is ok
still looking to see if I just happened to pull some wires out somewhere.

Questions:
Anyone have a wiring diagram for this bike?
is the kill switch on the bars supposed to supply 12v to the ignition module?
Is there supposed to be any constant voltage to the Ignition module itself?
Any other suggestions???

I'm pretty damn stubborn and I refuse to believe that right after riding then pulling the carb the ignition module dies...
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edac
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« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2010, 02:56:20 PM »

bad contacts in the ignition switch?
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cfranco Topic starter
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« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2010, 03:02:44 PM »

Yeah just about to tear into that, after days of searching I found a 1991 cb250 diagram.
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Laminar
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« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2010, 03:11:23 PM »

is the kill switch on the bars supposed to supply 12v to the ignition module?
Is there supposed to be any constant voltage to the Ignition module itself?

On the 550/650, the run/stop switch provides +12V to both the coils and the ignition box. You have the 250 wiring diagram so you can see how that works.
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windrider
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« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2010, 03:31:54 PM »

I would not think the the run/stop switch supplies 12 volts to the coils.  Instead, the ignition switch provides the 12 volts for the coils.  It does however go through the run/stop switch to arrive at the coils.  With the run/stop in the run position, and the key on, I would think you should see 12 volts on the coils.  If either the key is turned off, or the run/stop moved to stop, the 12 volts should disappear. Just for clarification, I don't have a Nighthawk 250, or a wiring diagram, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.
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Laminar
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« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2010, 03:33:01 PM »

I would not think the the run/stop switch supplies 12 volts to the coils.  Instead, the ignition switch provides the 12 volts for the coils.  It does however go through the run/stop switch to arrive at the coils.

The difference isn't clear to me.
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cfranco Topic starter
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« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2010, 03:37:14 PM »

Just for clarification, I don't have a Nighthawk 250, or a wiring diagram, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.
Works just as well!

Here's the diagram.
http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr148/luddle/cb250nighthawk91.jpg
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