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Author Topic: 650 Nighthawk with round headlight -WIRING HELP?!?!?!  (Read 1607 times)
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andyfsr Topic starter
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« on: January 17, 2011, 09:35:04 AM »

Well here are some pics of the CB headlight I mounted on my 85 650 Nighthawk.
I used Rubber Coated Clamps that I found at Grainger Supplies.  Had to buy a bag of 20. Oh well.
Used 3/4 wide aluminum strap I found at Lowes and some metric Allen heads for the the mounts.

I also have some cheap but cool looking turn signals to mount on the bike but they are just two wire type, so I am not yet sure hoe to make the front signals work.  I'll figure it out,  I hope.

This is just roughed up. I will remove brackets and do some more finish shaping and possibly shorten bottom brackets to lower headlight just a bit.  Will also probably make brackets match rest of metal work on bike.



* 3.4.resize.headlight.JPG (59.38 KB, 350x262 - viewed 430 times.)

* close.up.resize.JPG (54.04 KB, 350x262 - viewed 428 times.)
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Andy
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« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2011, 10:23:58 AM »

My local Menard's has the rubber-coated conduit clamps available in quantities of 1.

Here's a thread on wiring up 2-wire turn signals to the front.
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andyfsr Topic starter
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« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2011, 07:22:14 PM »

Thanks so much for the link to the turn signals-i was guessing  diodes would be involved.  I will post pics of turn signals when mounted
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Andy
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« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2011, 08:51:36 PM »

ok, the turn signal mirrors are going on my list!  I had written up that wiring a while back for using the 2 wire signals with a 3 wire (running light) setup.  different resistance values on the turn signal line and the running light line (double resistance on the running lights) should give it different brightnesses for the different signal types.
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« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2011, 09:04:48 PM »

Andysfr , you didn't have to make special brackets to convert to a round headlight  (always ask first , we can help make it easier )

Here's a thread on converting to a round ....a few of us done it without special brackets (just a matter on buying the right bucket and moding it a little)
http://nighthawk-forums.com/index.php/topic,3538.0.html

Nice job so far though and nice bike  thumb
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« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2011, 10:02:36 PM »

....a few of us done it without special brackets (just a matter on buying the right bucket and moding it a little)

Translation: Gentle to Severe application of a hammer to stock mounting ears and 2 grown men forcing the bucket in while a third inserts the bolts.   ImaPoser


What? That's how ww0493 got a round headlight on his 550NH!  winker
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andyfsr Topic starter
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« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2011, 06:56:00 AM »

I would have loved to use stock brackets but sadly my top headlight mount on the triple clamp is broken off.   So it required the different mount set up.  If money permits when it is all done I may seek out a replacement top triple clamp and start over
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« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2011, 07:34:11 AM »

ok, the turn signal mirrors are going on my list!  I had written up that wiring a while back for using the 2 wire signals with a 3 wire (running light) setup.  different resistance values on the turn signal line and the running light line (double resistance on the running lights) should give it different brightnesses for the different signal types.



When the turn signal switch is in the middle "neutral" position, steady +12V is provided on both running light wires (orange/white & light blue/white). When the turn signal switch is in the "turn left" position, it provides a flashing +12V from the turn signal relay to the turn signal wire of the left signal (orange), steady +12V to the right running light wire, and nothing to the left running light wire. Vice versa for the signal in the "turn right" position.

Doubling resistance on the running light circuit just means that your running lights will be dimmer all of the time. When you go to signal, there's no +12V signal on that line, the signal light will flash from 0% to 100% because the only signal it's getting is from the turn signal flasher. You're not even saving power by running the lights dimmer because that extra energy is being eaten up by the resistors.

I think.  scratcher
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« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2011, 08:12:53 AM »

the resistors can be pretty low resistance with the LED.  I'd just use them to cut the voltage applied to the LED when being used as a running light.  There would be some testing to be done.

What I want is to cut the voltage down to the LED's when they are being used as running lights but give them full voltage when being used as signals.  So maybe the line for a signal would have no resistor but the line for the running light would have a resistance that is something about half of what the LED's read for resistance.

the idea is to get the same performance from a 2 wire LED bank as from the stock 3 wire setup.
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« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2011, 08:30:43 AM »

the resistors can be pretty low resistance with the LED.  I'd just use them to cut the voltage applied to the LED when being used as a running light.  There would be some testing to be done.

What I want is to cut the voltage down to the LED's when they are being used as running lights but give them full voltage when being used as signals.  So maybe the line for a signal would have no resistor but the line for the running light would have a resistance that is something about half of what the LED's read for resistance.

the idea is to get the same performance from a 2 wire LED bank as from the stock 3 wire setup.

I understand your intent, just not your reasoning. Why not have bright running lights? Isn't more visibility good?
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« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2011, 08:31:43 AM »

I'm thinking to make the turn signals stand out more compared to the running lights.

It would be easy to switch between the 2 though.  Just take the resistor out of the circuit

the resistors can be pretty low resistance with the LED.  I'd just use them to cut the voltage applied to the LED when being used as a running light.  There would be some testing to be done.

What I want is to cut the voltage down to the LED's when they are being used as running lights but give them full voltage when being used as signals.  So maybe the line for a signal would have no resistor but the line for the running light would have a resistance that is something about half of what the LED's read for resistance.

the idea is to get the same performance from a 2 wire LED bank as from the stock 3 wire setup.

I understand your intent, just not your reasoning. Why not have bright running lights? Isn't more visibility good?
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« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2011, 09:40:06 AM »

I guess I'm still not getting it. When the turn signal is activated, the turn signal light goes from 0% brightness to 100% brightness, like a turn signal should. Why hold the running light at, say, 50% brightness? Is there a proven improvement in effectiveness?
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andyfsr Topic starter
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« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2011, 03:01:56 PM »

So as I understand it, I just have to get the diodes and place them (in the right direction) in my positive lead on my new two wire turn signals?
Thanks
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Andy
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« Reply #13 on: January 19, 2011, 02:31:36 PM »

Do any of you have a color code and wiring diagram as to how the wires are supposed to be behind the headlight assy?
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Andy
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« Reply #14 on: January 19, 2011, 03:26:03 PM »

Click for full size:
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« Reply #15 on: March 01, 2011, 01:47:53 PM »

Ok I found a new top triple clamp and new ears (OK used) but I will be remounting the round headlight in the original style mounts.   Just waiting on the parts.
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Andy
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