My 91 cafe racer nighthawk 750

[toycoma]

two poop videos from today.
http://""]100611a.AVI
http://""]100611b.AVI
got a pair of these coming in this week so I can replace the crappy bent up stock mounts

Once these are installed I  can finally start working on making a mount for my emgo fairing.

not sure I will keep it but I want/need to see what it looks like on the bike.

[Davy888]

Hey just noticed jersey plates.  Cool

[darian]

I really like it.  You've done a lot of good work and it's tasteful for sure.   

[mike20]

Hey toycoma, what exhaust is that? And when you find a good sounding and good looking under the bike exhaust post a video cause I'm still looking and can't decide. I do have the stock exhaust and I'm looking for something that has more sound. I was thinking for a cheap fix for now just cutting off the mufflers under the bike so their out of the way. Now
when you bought your tail where did you buy the seat pad?
Anyway I could integrate an LED tail light with turn signals
and lights to light up the license plates, into that tail so it's
flush? ( and maybe still light up my license plate?) any
ideas? Great bike by the way definitely helping me with ideas
for my 92 CB750 nighthawk.

[toycoma]

I forget where I got the seat foam but I was told airtech sells seat foam that is twice as thick.
The exhaust came with the bike. It is vance and hines. I am going to make my own muffler and mount it something like this bikes

And I have no idea How you could do the light. Factorykiss on ebay has some led tail lights that have turn signals intergrated into the brake light though.
http://stores.ebay.com/FactoryKiss/Tail-Light-/_i.html?_fsub=2820729016&_sid=951452036&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/28-LED-ALL-IN-ONE-Brake-Tail-Turn-Plate-Light-Quad-ATV-Dirt-Bike-Motorcycle-/330614558194?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cfa29cdf2#ht_4413wt_939

[allstresdout]

Really like the sound there toycoma.

[mike20]

seat is from air tech. You'll have to come up with a way to mount it. I made a frame with hooks at the front and and welded the loop from the stock seat to the back of it and welded the factory frame brace with the latch back to the
frame. so it works like the stock seat.

So can you post pics of your seat latch mechanism? Where did you put the key hole at?

[toycoma]

no key hole. I cut the cable housing short to expose more cable and looped the end of the cable. Then I mounted the cable down the length of the frame towards the gas tank. The front looks like the bottom side of the stock latch but in steel round bar and the back is the stock latch rewelded to the frame. I cut the stock piece out of the old seat and welded that to the seat frame i made. I don't have pics of any of that right now.

[mike20]

Hey toycoma I was doing some searching for other parts cause I'm trying not to do the same exact bike as yours so I ran across this web site that has a few exhaust options and a couple that sit under the bike. Hope this helps. http://shop.cyclex.co/exhausts/

[toycoma]

anyone got some photo shop skills?

this is my lame attempt with MS paint.

[mike20]

Hey when you find shorter forks or ones that work with our bikes can you let me know? I already found adjustable air shocks but can't find shorter front forks. Any ideas would help thanks.

[Shmee]

Nice build so far!
as someone who modifies everything for a living, try doing a kick-out where the exhaust just turns 45 or even 90 just in front of the rear wheel and dumps out the side. you could give that a shop with some basic pipe just to see and then re-do it later with better pipe.
another option is get you hands on an aftermarket exhaust from a more modern bike and cut it down and make a stubby muffler out of it like this guy did:

doesn't have to be carbon, although that could look good if you re-did your side covers with some plain carbon sheet just to tie everything together! :thumbup:

[mike20]

Hey toycoma I've been meaning to ask what did you do with your controls? Do you have a problem with them moving around? The previous owner of my bike put a dirt bike handlebar on mine so since he had to make the holes bigger and now there's no pin holding them in place mine move when I move the throttle or hit the horn or hi-beam. Hopefully you were able to fix this and i can get rid of this pesky problem. Thanks again.

[toycoma]

left side moves when I push the idle lever back and it bottoms out. Right side I had to drill a hole in the bars for the pin to go into and hold it in place.

[Laminar]

Actually it's quite the opposite- wrapping pipes is an acquired skill, leaving factory plated pipes alone is not. Wrapped or blacked out pipes look more sinister than chrome any day IMHO

I can't believe I missed this. Acquired skill?? Haha. If by "acquired skill" you mean "so easy a caveman could do it."

My very first try at ever wrapping pipes:

[traditional tat]

Actually it's quite the opposite- wrapping pipes is an acquired skill, leaving factory plated pipes alone is not. Wrapped or blacked out pipes look more sinister than chrome any day IMHO

I can't believe I missed this. Acquired skill?? Haha. If by "acquired skill" you mean "so easy a caveman could do it."

My very first try at ever wrapping pipes:

Wow.....bored?

[jonno173]

Nice! 

[toycoma]

small boring update.
started with this mess.


figured out where i wanted it all to sit and got to hackin'


soldering up wires


and finished.

pain in the ass to do. honda has wire after wire spliced off of wires. It was like they hired Corky from Life goes on to design the thing..... Front wiring in the head light is next along with finally getting to the headlight brackets and the fairing. Also have to reroute the throttle cables to reduce the binding issues they have right now.

[mike20]

Hey toycoma update me on your throttle cables positions cause I'm having a problem finding the right route for those cables so they don't bind up.

[toycoma]

need to pick up a filter and oil so i am ready for the spring oil change.
list of filters

Honda: 15410-MMJ-D01

About 2.5 inches long.

Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12.
Bosch 3300, about $6.
SuperTech ST6607

About 3.25 inches long.

Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Bosch 3323, about $6.
SuperTech ST7317, about $2.

not sure how many quarts the bike takes but I am going with rotella t 15w40 because it is JASO-MA rated. Edit, i found a link that says it needs 3 quarts. 3.1 to be exact with a filter change.
http://www.pipeline.com/~randyo/97NH750_Specs.htm

also probably going to order this muffler next week.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200694883265&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_5466wt_1185

will have to mod the inlet side and probably cut the length down. I'll have to see once i get it.

[Laminar]

also probably going to order this muffler next week.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200694883265&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_5466wt_1185

will have to mod the inlet side and probably cut the length down. I'll have to see once i get it.

this product will fit most 50cc, 75cc, 85cc, 100cc and 125cc GY6 engine system Scooters, Motorcycles, Streetbikes and Motorbikes

It's not designed to flow what a 750cc engine needs.

[toycoma]

vance and hines seems to think a 1 3/4" baffle is big enough for a 750.... The in let on this is 1 3/4 but if the baffle is smaller on this one i will just swap it out with the one in the V&H since that muffler is going in the trash.

[Laminar]

vance and hines seems to think a 1 3/4" baffle is big enough for a 750.... The in let on this is 1 3/4 but if the baffle is smaller on this one i will just swap it out with the one in the V&H since that muffler is going in the trash.

Oh okay. You know what you're talking about.

[toycoma]

Ordered the muffler on monday.

Also, I have actually been thinking about maybe doing a tapered baffle from 2 inch do to 1 3/4. Maybe even down to 1 1/2. I really don't get why V&H went with a 2" diameter from the header to the muffler and choked it down right to  1 3/4" At the beginning of the baffle.  You would think you would want the opening of the baffle to be just as big so you can allow the exhaust gas to flow into the muffler then start to choke it down. Probably will be easier to do 2" baffle all the way but with a 1 3/4 opening at the end. I had a muffler on my drift car years ago that was straight through 2 1/2 and it came with a silencer that was probably around 1 1/2 (never measured it) and it made a huge difference in sound and I didn't notice any real power lose. The motor was a 3.0l inline 6. Looking at the pics it looks like this muffler might have one and I hope it does because that opens up some option.

[mike20]

Hey toycoma did you keep that oil breather box? Or did you get rid of it?